Jaguar Wood Trim Re-Finish
This is a subject that has been talked about for
many years and by many with a lot of opinions. I am not an expert in
this area but have been fooling around with furniture making and
finishing for years and have contemplated the process of refinishing the
trim in the Jags. I am soon to retire and hope to begin doing this when
I finish doing the other stuff..
Removing the trim is a big thing without damaging it in the process the
next thing is to strip the old finish to
expose the wood. In the process of doing
this your wood will develop stains from
the product you use. I know I jumped ahead without addressing the
product used to strip the finish. I am at
this time unable to identify the finish
myself but from what I understand it is a commercial lacquer
finish. The only thing that is telling me
is that it is going to be hard to duplicate the
finish but I would give it a try.
• Removing the finish
Assuming that it is lacquer I would find a product that will remove it.
And take your time doing this! If you are thinking about sanding it off
you need to know that you will be sanding into the
wood in the process of removing the
finish, a small but substantial portion
of wood that is at times noticeable. I
say this because you are going to use grits from 100, 220 to 400 and you
will need to block it and that will take time.
• Removing the finish
remover and stains
Yes chances you are going to have stains from the
finish remover and you do not want that
to be noticeable and it will be when you begin finishing. I am not
recommending this product but you can use Behien De-Waxer to remove the
stains that were left behind.
Sanding is important and should not be taken lightly. HaHa! Do not use a
heavier grit sandpaper than necessary to achieve the
finish quality you desire. When the sand
paper begins to clog replace it without hesitation. Earlier I mentioned
blocking, this process is often overlooked and it should not happen. You
can use a stiff rubber block designed for this use, what it does is it
eliminates divots in the wood that will
wave at you after finishing. Be careful not to forget the soft roll in
the wood at all ends. I hope that made
• Wood Grain
I know what is Wood Grain Filler? If used
properly it will give you a level finish
and that is what you are looking for. I am a Minwax stain user, I do not
use the water based products but the stain can be used as filler but
only as a last resort.
Use a stain to create an even contrast in your
finish or to match what you have not finished (not an easy task).
If you remember anything on this post remember that your finished
color/texture is identified when your filler/stain is applied and wet.
When it dries it looks like just another piece of
wood so keep an eye on it.
• Your finish
This is a process that is not as easy as it seems. I am a spray lacquer
guy but you must have the right type of equipment to spray. You need a
HVLP sprayer and a spray booth and you must use a respirator when
spraying. Now if you do not have an option to spraying. Deft makes a
self leveling lacquer finish in gloss,
semi-gloss and satin and the best part is that it will dry in 30 min.
Now when you apply this product you need to be in a ventilated area and
use a quality brush and have lacquer cleaner/thinner on hand. Wait for
at least 24 hours and block sand it again and do it until you reach the
finish you want.
I failed to mention that with lacquer each coat that you put on the
surface becomes one because of its chemical composition.
I should also say that if you use the Deft you MUST make sure it is
stirred and when you think it is do it again and put the lid back on
If you are not familiar with finishing you should try it on a scrap
wood. You should also test the process to
be sure that the materials YOU get are compatible with each other.
Caution; should you apply water to the wood
prior to applying the finish you will be
raising the grain and you may need to go back a few steps. The water
could also create a stain and that means starting over again. I hope